The latest travel advice relating to Japan (April 15th) from JNTO

"The majority of regions in Japan including popular leisure travel destinations, are outside the areas affected by tsunami, earthquake and radiation, and received no disruption to infrastructure.  Everything in these areas continues to operate as usual.  The greater Tokyo area has already retrieved the usual condition, and there are no more periodical blackouts.  The other regions are unharmed, and safe and normal as before."

For full details please visit the JNTO travel advisory page at Japantravelinfo.com.
http://japantravelinfo.com/news/news_item.php?newsid=431

JRCS EARTHQUAKE AND TSUNAMI DISASTER RELIEF HELP

If you can please donate to the Japanese Red Cross Society to assist the disaster relief efforts helping those affected by the earthquake and tsunami in Japan.

Please visit the Japanese Red Cross Society website below for full details about making a donation:
>http://www.jrc.or.jp/english/relief/l4/Vcms4_00002070.html

Watching Kabuki in Japan

Watching a Kabuki performance while you are visiting Japan is not difficult to arrange and very rewarding. Visit the Shochiku Kabuki website to see what is on. It briefly explains the origins of Kabuki and also the practicalities involved in seeing a performance as a non-Japanese speaker. You can follow the performance through an earphone translation. Kabuki can be seen in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.

For full details visit the Shochiku official Kabuki website:

http://www.kabuki-bito.jp/eng/top.html

Our Nakasendo tour review on tripadvisor!

Nakasendo tours in spring 2011

Spring – known as haru -- is an ideal time to visit Japan when cherry trees erupt in a stunning display of blossom. Crowds gather under the best trees for traditional hanami – or cherry blossom viewing -- parties.

The best time to witness this spectacular sight is at the end of March and beginning of April. Why not join a Japan Travelogue 10 night Nakasendo tour. Starting in Tokyo we then head to the Kiso valley in central Japan, where we walk from village to village through beautiful countryside along the ancient Nakasendo road. We end our trip in the old imperial capital, Kyoto. Along the way, we stay in traditional Japanese inns, many of which have been run by the same family for generations.

Alternatively, try our 14 day Highlights of Japan tour. In addition to stays in Tokyo and Kyoto and three nights walking the Nakasendo Way, we also visit Kamakura, Hakone, Nara, Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Full details of all our tours and custom options are available at www.japantravelogue.com.

Suica & N'EX: A great travel savings package

Looking to make a saving on travel fares in Tokyo? Check out the convenient Suica & N'EX travel card. It includes a round-trip ticket between Narita Airport and the Tokyo/Yokohama area on the Narita Express train plus 1,500 yen preloaded on a Suica smart card.

For full details and terms and conditions visit the JR East webpage via this link:


http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/suica-nex/index.html#category01

Images of Old Japan

On our Nakasendo walking tour we pass through old post towns and villages that date back centuries. The Old Photos of Japan blog by Kjeld Duits is a great resource that compliments this look back with photos dating from the Meiji(1868-1912), Taisho(1912-1926) and Showa (1926-1989) periods.

For more images of old Japan visit: http://www.oldphotosjapan.com/en/

Images of the old Nakasendo

Here is a selection of woodblock prints of the places that Japan Travelogue's Nakasendo walking tour passes through. These prints date back to the 1830s and form a part of a series of prints published as The Sixty-nine Stations of the Kisokaido. This work was a collaboration between two artists, Ando/Utagawa Hiroshige and Keisai Eisen. Walking along the Nakasendo today it is still possible to see glimpses of Japan as it was during the artists' time.

1. Nihonbashi (Tokyo). Eisen


2. Karuizawa. Hiroshige.


3. Narai. Eisen.


4. Yabuhara. Hiroshige.


5. Kisofukushima. Hiroshige.


6. Nojiri. Eisen.


7. Midono. Hiroshige.


8. Tsumago. Hiroshige.


9. Magome. Eisen.


10. Ochiai. Hiroshige.


11. Nakatsugawa. Hiroshige.


12. Oi. Hiroshige.


13. Okute. Hiroshige.


14. Hosokute. Hiroshige.


15. Mitake. Hiroshige.

Article about Kyoto as seen by a foreigner

A great article by Pico Iyer about discovering Kyoto captures many of the aspects we recognize.
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/93348289.html

The Japan Rail Pass option

The Japan Rail Pass can offer a very economical way to travel within Japan. The pass comes in two types: Green (first class) and Ordinary. These passes can be purchased as 7 day, 14 day and 21 day passes. They offer unlimited travel on Japan Rail train, bus and ferry networks for the duration of validity. There are some restrictions, however. Passes are not valid on Nozomi class shinkansen bullet trains on the Tokaido and Sanyo lines.

Before purchasing a Japan Rail pass, find out the approximate cost of your total rail travel in Japan to see if the Japan Rail Pass options offers you a real saving. You can do this by using a convenient journey planner website that also allows you to find out the cost of your journey. Go to http://www.hyperdia.com/ and type in the departure and arrival points (including dates and times). You can choose between reserved seating and unreserved (cheaper) seating ticket prices. Then compare the total cost of all the journeys you plan to make with the price of a corresponding Japan Rail Pass. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy rail tickets individually rather than a Japan Rail Pass. The Japan Rail pass is ideal for people who plan to use the JR train network extensively during their stay in the country.

Japan Rail Pass website: http://www.japanrailpass.net/eng/en003.html

Street styles in Tokyo

The streets of Tokyo are great for people watching. You can follow street fashion in there at:
http://www.style-arena.jp/en/street/

Summer of Japanese Festivals

Some summer festivals in Japan to check out.

1. Tenjin Matsuri in Osaka held on 24 & 25 July. A 1000 year old tradtion. A festival on land and water in Osaka. Follow the whole festival from beginning to end at the website below.
http://www.osaka-info.jp/tenjin_matsuri/main_en.html

2. Nebuta Matsuri in Aomori held between 2 - 7 August. One of the largest festivals in the region with impressive floats.
http://www.nebuta.jp/english/index_e.htm

3. Akita Kanto Matsuri in Akita city from 3 - 6 August. Impressive balancing of a stack of lanterns hanging from a huge pole is one of the highlights.
http://www.kantou.gr.jp/english/index.htm

4. Yamagata Hanagasa Matsuri held in Yamagata from 5 - 7 August. About 10,000 dancers parade with decorated hats and floats.
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/indepth/history/traditionalevents/a44_fes_hanagasa.html

5. Awa Odori is one of the largest dance festivals in Japan held in Tokushima from 12 - 15 August.
http://www.city.tokushima.tokushima.jp/english/awaodori.html
http://web-japan.org/atlas/festivals/fes19.html

A history of travel in Tokugawa dynasty Japan

Breaking Barriers, Travel and the State in Early Modern Japan by Constantine Nomikos Vaporis.

This is recommended reading for anyone interested in the history of the Edo period and the developement of the travel inside Japan at this time.

Planning your trip: Timing.

A few things to consider when planning your walking trip to Japan.

1. The time of year to visit.

End of March to the beginning of April is best for cherry blossom viewing. The landscape is transformed by this truely amazing natural spectacle. But be aware cities like Kyoto are very busy with both domestic and overseas tourists. Booking accommodation well in advance is strongly recommended. Some hotels are fully booked several months to a year in advance for the end of March and beginning of April.

July and August. This is a particularly hot and humid time Japan and is best avoided, unless you are thinking of heading for the higher regions such as the Japan Alps and Mount Fuji or going to one of the summer festivals (matsuri). The official climbing season for Mount Fuji is during July and August when the huts and emergency facilities are operational.

October through November. This is a great time to visit. The climate in central Japan is ideal for walks in the forest and mountain trails. It's generally still warm in the lower areas, like Kyoto and Tokyo, but starting to cool down during the day in higher altitudes. Nights in higher areas are chilly. Autumn colors start to set in from mid-October through to November and make for breathtaking scenes in rural Japan in particular.

Golden week is a string of public holidays that start on the 29th of April through to the 5th of May. Around these dates it feels like the whole of Japan is on the move and train and air travel and tourist attactions are best avoided.

2. Some festivals (Matsuri) to consider.
You might like to synchronise  your visit to coincide with some Japanese festivals.  Listed below are some of the better known ones.

- April & October. Takayama Festival.
http://www.hidanet.ne.jp/e02/ematsuri/ekigen.htm

- May (3rd weekend- Sunday and preceding Friday and Saturday of May). Sanja Festival in Asakusa, Tokyo.
http://www.asakusa-umai.ne.jp/e_asakusa/matsuri/index_spr_e.html#5

- July. Gion Festival in Kyoto.
http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/info_required/traditional/kyoto_city/02/

- October (22nd). Kurama Fire Festival in Kyoto
http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/info_required/traditional/kyoto_city/18/

3. Ryokan.

Staying at a Japanese inn including enjoying a traditional kaiseki meal is a highlight of visiting. You can choose from super luxury to cheap class of inn. If you stay at a luxury class Japanese inn for several nights running you will soon discover that the awe-factor tends to fade with repetition of the experience.  Instead, treat yourself to a night at one of the top ryokans and enjoy their fabulous service and kaiseki dinner then move on to a hotel or moderate ryokan using it as a base to explore the wide choice of restaurants a city like Tokyo and Kyoto, for example, have to offer.

Two luxury ryokans in Kyoto (*prices are a guide only. Please contact the inns directly for prices).

1. Tawaraya.
Anenokoji-agaru, Fuyacho, Oike-agaru, Nakagyo-ku
Kyoto 604-8094, Japan
Tel:  +81 (0)75 211 5566
Fax: +81 (0)75 211 2204
Prices from around JPY50,000 per person per night based on double occupancy and two meals.
http://www.japanican.com/hotels/shisetsudetail.aspx?ar=A41&st=6232046

2. Hiiragiya.
Nakahakusancho, Fuyacho Anekoji-agaru, Nakagyo-ku,
Kyoto 604-8094, Japan
Tel:  +81 (0)75 221 1136
Fax: +81 (0)75 221 1139
Prices from around JPY35,000 per person per night based on double occupancy and two meals.
http://www.hiiragiya.co.jp/en/

Aizenkobo hand-dyed indigo textiles in Kyoto

Aizenkobo workshop in Kyoto is a great place to visit for handwoven and hand-dyed indigo textiles. Working in a machiya-style traditional Japanese townhouse located in the Nishijin textile district of Kyoto, Utsuki-san uses a traditional Japanese indigo-dying techniques to produce beautiful and long lasting textiles and garments.


This friendly shop near Imadegawadori not far from the Kyoto Archeological museum.

See: http://web.inet.or.jp/people/aizen

Images of Tokyo in the Meiji and Taisho periods.

The National Diet Library has an amazing collection of images of Tokyo from the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taisho (1912-1926) periods. It's an interesting resource that helps one to understand how the physical landscape of Tokyo has changed over time.

The link to the National Diet Libarary is here:

http://www.ndl.go.jp/scenery/e/category/index.html

Highlights of our Nakasendo tour

Our 10 night, 11 day, Nakasendo walking tour starts in Tokyo and ends in Kyoto. We travel through the beautiful Kiso valley section of this historic road. For more information please visit our website at http://japantravelogue.com/nakasendo.php
Or contact us at tours@japantravelogue.com

We look forward to welcoming you to Japan!

2011 Nakasendo tour dates

We are pleased to announce the 2011 dates for our Nakasendo walking tour. For full details please visit our Nakasendo tour page at:
http://www.japantravelogue.com/nakasendo.php

We look forward to welcoming you to Japan!

Cherry Blossom forecast for 2010

Accurately forecasting the start of the cherry blossom season is notoriously difficult and the Japan Meteorological Agency has in the recent past taken a hit or two for getting it very wrong. It no longer provides this service. Instead, here are the latest predictions from the Japan Weather Association Report to give you a rough idea of when to enjoy this magical season in Japan.

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/indepth/seasonal/sakura2010/

This is a particularly busy time in Japan with both domestic and overseas tourists flocking to the best cherry blossom viewing sites. Accommodation in places like Kyoto fill up several months in advance of this season with some hotels and inns accepting bookings a year in advance. Perhaps a good time time to start planning your visit to Japan in 2011.

Shoes and slippers etiquette at a Japanese inn.

Adhering to the correct etiquette for shoes and slippers is very important when staying at a Japanese inn. Get it right and the inn keepers will feel confident that you know how to live in a Japanese setting, making for a more relaxed atmosphere all round.

Firstly, leave your shoes at the entrance before stepping up on to the raised wooden living area of the inn. When you get out of your shoes try to step directly on to the raised floor of the house and never linger barefoot in the entrance next to your shoes.

Slippers are usually provided by the inn. Please use them when walking along the corridors of the inn.

When entering a tatami-matted room always leave your slippers outside the room in the corridor. Only ever set foot on a tatami floor in stocking or bare feet.

Toilets in the inn will also have their own exclusive toilet slippers which should be worn only while in the toilet area, leaving the ordinary slippers outside the door.

How to put on a yukata at a Japanese inn.

Japanese inns provide comfortable yukatas or cotton kimonos to lounge in. These are usually worn after bathing. Yukatas at Japanese inns are also worn to dinner and they function as pyjamas too. There are many types of yukata, but the ones that are provided by inns are usually standard white and blue with a simple belt as shown in the video. Remember to fold the left side of the yukata over the right and keep the belt knot at the back. In the cooler months there is a coat called a "haori" which can be worn over the yukata to stay warm. You can also wear leggings and a long sleeved t-shirt underneath to keep out the cold, although a warm cup of sake or two should do the trick just as well!

Traditional theatre in Tokyo & Osaka

If you are interested in traditional Noh, Kabuki or Bunraku theatre and want to plan your visit to Japan to coincide with a performance you can find out about schedules by visiting the National Threatre of Japan website.  Here you can find listings for Noh, Kabuki and Bunraku perfromances in Tokyo and Osaka. Tickets can be purchased online from outside Japan but delivery is limited to within Japan. 
http://www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english/index.html

Notable Ramen in Kyoto

Every city and district has it's favourite ramen noodle shop, but one that is widely accepted as a meimon (名門) or noted ramen shop in Kyoto is Tampopo located on Senbondori about 400 meters north from the intersection of Senbon and Kitaojidori. If you are in the city and have a craving for good unpretentious ramen with a nice chilli sauce served by friendly staff then this is the place to go.

Open daily:
Mon to Sat: 11:30〜01:00 (L.O.24：30)
Sun: 11:30〜15:00 & 17:00〜21:00

Address: 〒603-8245京都府京都市北区紫野西蓮台野町57

UKハイム1F
Tel: 075-493-8594

Map: http://r.tabelog.com/kyoto/A2605/A260501/26001890/dtlmap/

Also see: http://ramen.gnavi.co.jp/shop/jp/k245100n.htm#

Hiking and lacquerware mini break around Narai in Nagano prefecture

Hop on a train from Tokyo (3.2h) or Kyoto (2.3h) to Narai in Nagano prefecture. At this former post town stay the night in an atmospheric traditional inn, ISEYA, run by the friendly Sakai family. During the Edo period Narai was a post town situated roughly half way between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) on the Nakasendo. Today it has a preserved 19th century look as a result of a conservation order. Despite it's living museum status, you still see ordinary residents going about their daily life in the village which adds to the sense of authenticity and charm. Local crafts include lacquerware production.

Neighbouring Kisohirasawa is, however, the village to visit for some amazing high quality lacquerware with price tags to match. This quiet little village is a 25 minute walk from Narai. Craftsmen have been producing lacquerware here for the past 300 hundred years and some fabulous pieces can be found.

Sampke itinerary:
Day 1. Arrive in Narai and deposit any luggage at the inn and head out for the Nakasendo hiking trail. Walk up to the pass and either return the same way or continue further to Yabuhara village from where you can take a local train back to Narai (trains are only once an hour during peak times). Hiking time is 2.5 hours. Dinner is provided at the inn.

Day 2. Explore Narai after breakfast and continue on foot to neighboring Kisohirasawa. Visit lacquerware shops. Take the local train back from Kisohirasawa to Shiojiri or Kisofukushima and change for onward connections. Luggage can be left at the inn for collection later.

Recommended accommodation is at Iseya. Run by the Sakai family, the seventh generation of inn keepers in Narai.
(In Japanese only) http://www.oyado-iseya.jp/
From JPY8,800 per person including dinner & breakfast based on double occupancy. Single occupancy is JPY9,300.
Tel：0264-34-3051
Fax：0264-34-3156


Getting there:
Train from Shinjuku station: Ltd Express Azusa to Shiojiri then transfer to Chuo line arriving in Narai. Fare from JPY6,930 per person one way.
Train from Kyoto: Shinkansen to Nagoya then transfer to Shinano Ltd. Express to Kisofukushima and transfer to JR Chuo line arriving in Narai. Fare from JPY9,210 per person one way.

TRAINS

If you're going to be travelling extensively by train while you're in Japan, the most economical way to do so is with a Japan Rail Pass http://www.japanrailpass.net/

The passes are valid for 7, 14 or 21 days and are available as standard or Green class (Green class allows you to reserve seating and travel in the first class, or Green carriages). The passes can be used on all Bullet Train services, except the Nozomi class, and most limited express, express, rapid and local trains operated by JR. You can also use them to travel on many JR-operated bus services and the Miyajima ferry.

The passes MUST be acquired before travelling to Japan and validated at a designated JR office when you arrive (please see the website for more details).

ONLINE TRAIN TIMETABLES

There are two great resources for planning train travel throughout Japan, Hyperdia and Jorudan. Both are in English:

Hyperdia
http://www.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperWeb.cgi

Jorudan
http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/norikae/

Jorudan has slightly clearer presentation, but Hyperdia provides more information on car hire, hotel accommodation and so on.

Yaesu Terminal Hotel - Conveniently located Tokyo hotel

If you want a clean and well situated reasonably priced business hotel in Tokyo try the Yaesu Terminal Hotel just 2 minutes walk from Tokyo Station Yaesu North Exit.

Some advantages:
- After arriving in Tokyo station on the Narita Express train from the airport no need to negotiate another mode of transport - it's literally 2 minutes from the North exit.
- Great location for sight seeing around the Imperial Palace, Nihonbashi and Ginza with great transport links to beyond. You can easily go for that morning jog around the Imperial palance from here.
- restaurants and Karaoke (if you are so inclined) are all on your doorstep.
- the rooms are on the small side so if you want to spread out this is not the hotel for you. However, it's clean and comfortable and the staff are friendly. I've stayed here well over a dozen times. A great place to use as a base while in Tokyo.

Lastly, the Kyobashi branch of Isehiro yakitori restaurant is just a short walk from here.

Here are the contact details:
http://www.yth.jp/english/index.html

TOYOKO INN - Budget Hotel Chain

These basic hotels are ubiquitous throughout Japan (there are 25 or so in the Tokyo area). They're nearly always located near the local JR station, making them easy to find in areas you're visiting for the first time, and rates for a single room range from about 5-6000 yen per night. Their consequent popularity means that booking, up to two weeks in advance, is essential (this can be done online up to 6 months in advance).

Interestingly, the chain employs women predominantly - 95% of the staff, including managers, are female.

The company offers a loyalty scheme called Toyoko Inn Club Card which costs 1500 yen to join. For every 10 nights you stay, you are given a voucher for one night's free accommodation (details here: http://www.toyoko-inn.com/eng/club.html )

http://www.toyoko-inn.com/eng/

Edo - Tokyo Museum in Ryogoku

This museum is an informative and fun place to visit for those interested in the history of Tokyo.

The permanent exhibition starts on the 6th floor, where you walk over a life-sized replica of Nihonbashi, the wooden bridge celebrated in Hiroshige's Tokaido woodblock print series.

The exhibition covers a variety of aspects of city life during the Edo period with most exhibits explained in English. There are detailed miniatures and life-sized models of residences and maps.

The Tokyo zone of this exhibition traces the development and modernization of this city from the late 19th century through the Second World War up to the Tokyo Olympics in 1964.

This is an ideal museum for those interested in the history of this dynamic city. With many interactive displays, it caters for all ages.

Directions: 3 minute walk from JR Ryogoku train station (West Exit) past the national sumo arena or 1 minute from Toei Oedo subway station (A4 Exit).

Opening hours: 09:30 to 17:30 Tuesday to Sunday (until 19:30 on Saturdays). Closed on Mondays except when Monday is a national holiday. Then the museum is open and closed on the following Tuesday.

Address 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0015
Tel: 03-3626-9974

http://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english/index.html

Upmarket Yakitori in Tokyo

ISEHIRO 伊勢廣 京橋本店

If you like upmarket Yakitori try Isehiro. It's been operating since 1921 and has three restaurants in central Tokyo. I have eaten at the Kyobashi branch near Tokyo station. It's not cheap but it's mouth-wateringly delicious and always popular. Booking in advance is recommended. Closed on Sundays & holidays.

For the address and map go here:
http://www.gnavi.co.jp/gn/en/g133300a.htm

For menu example and price list go here:
http://www.ginza.jp/isehiro/eng.html

Katsukura - a popular & affordable tonkatsu chain restaurant in Kyoto & Tokyo.

Katsukura specialize in tonkatsu (deep fried breaded pork). Tonkatsu was invented in the Meiji period in the late 19th century as kind of Japanese western dish. It remains a very popular choice to this day and you cannot go wrong with Katsukura. For those of you who might think deep-fried equals heavy and greasy you will be pleasantly surprised. Here tonkatsu comes with shredded raw cabbage, barley rice and miso soup on the side. The pork is amazingly light and melts in your mouth and is definitely worth the queuing for. The sauce into which the sliced pieces of pork are dipped is VERY important. At Katsukura, you crush a handful of sesame seeds with a pestle and mix in the sauce (a vegetable, palm, fruit & red wine mixture) that is provided. There are two kinds: regular and spicy. The raw shredded cabbage offers just the right balance to the pork. Free extra helpings of cabbage, rice and miso are available. It is a great place to drop in for lunch or dinner. They also do take-away and offer non-meat choices such as vegetable rolls and large breaded prawns instead of pork.

Menus in English are available and the price is reasonable. A set menu without drinks is under JPY2,000- per person.

Location:
In central Kyoto there are three branches.
One around the corner from Shijo Karasuma Toyoko Inn. Turn left out of the hotel and turn into the first street on the left before Daimaru department store. It's the third building on the left.
One on Teramachidori near the corner of Shijodori.
One on Sanjodori is located in the covered section near the junction with Shinkyogoku. It's easy to miss as the entrance is only a narrow gap between buildings but you can't miss the food display outside (see photos posted).
Open daily from 11:00 to 21:30 except Saturdays open till 22:00
No table bookings possible. It does get very popular at peak times during the day and in the evening, but it' s worth the wait which is not that long as its turnover rate is quite fast.

Several branches in Tokyo including 14th floor of Takashimaya Department store in Shinjuku and B1 floor of Shiodome City Center in Shiodome.

Website (in Japanese) : http://www.fukunaga-tf.com/katsukura/shop/index.html
for a few photos & menu see: http://www.fukunaga-tf.com/katsukura/menu/index.html