Hiking and lacquerware mini break around Narai in Nagano prefecture

Hop on a train from Tokyo (3.2h) or Kyoto (2.3h) to Narai in Nagano prefecture. At this former post town stay the night in an atmospheric traditional inn, ISEYA, run by the friendly Sakai family. During the Edo period Narai was a post town situated roughly half way between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) on the Nakasendo. Today it has a preserved 19th century look as a result of a conservation order. Despite it's living museum status, you still see ordinary residents going about their daily life in the village which adds to the sense of authenticity and charm. Local crafts include lacquerware production.

Neighbouring Kisohirasawa is, however, the village to visit for some amazing high quality lacquerware with price tags to match. This quiet little village is a 25 minute walk from Narai. Craftsmen have been producing lacquerware here for the past 300 hundred years and some fabulous pieces can be found.

Sampke itinerary:
Day 1. Arrive in Narai and deposit any luggage at the inn and head out for the Nakasendo hiking trail. Walk up to the pass and either return the same way or continue further to Yabuhara village from where you can take a local train back to Narai (trains are only once an hour during peak times). Hiking time is 2.5 hours. Dinner is provided at the inn.

Day 2. Explore Narai after breakfast and continue on foot to neighboring Kisohirasawa. Visit lacquerware shops. Take the local train back from Kisohirasawa to Shiojiri or Kisofukushima and change for onward connections. Luggage can be left at the inn for collection later.

Recommended accommodation is at Iseya. Run by the Sakai family, the seventh generation of inn keepers in Narai.
(In Japanese only) http://www.oyado-iseya.jp/
From JPY8,800 per person including dinner & breakfast based on double occupancy. Single occupancy is JPY9,300.
Tel：0264-34-3051
Fax：0264-34-3156


Getting there:
Train from Shinjuku station: Ltd Express Azusa to Shiojiri then transfer to Chuo line arriving in Narai. Fare from JPY6,930 per person one way.
Train from Kyoto: Shinkansen to Nagoya then transfer to Shinano Ltd. Express to Kisofukushima and transfer to JR Chuo line arriving in Narai. Fare from JPY9,210 per person one way.

TRAINS

If you're going to be travelling extensively by train while you're in Japan, the most economical way to do so is with a Japan Rail Pass http://www.japanrailpass.net/

The passes are valid for 7, 14 or 21 days and are available as standard or Green class (Green class allows you to reserve seating and travel in the first class, or Green carriages). The passes can be used on all Bullet Train services, except the Nozomi class, and most limited express, express, rapid and local trains operated by JR. You can also use them to travel on many JR-operated bus services and the Miyajima ferry.

The passes MUST be acquired before travelling to Japan and validated at a designated JR office when you arrive (please see the website for more details).

ONLINE TRAIN TIMETABLES

There are two great resources for planning train travel throughout Japan, Hyperdia and Jorudan. Both are in English:

Hyperdia
http://www.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperWeb.cgi

Jorudan
http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/norikae/

Jorudan has slightly clearer presentation, but Hyperdia provides more information on car hire, hotel accommodation and so on.

Yaesu Terminal Hotel - Conveniently located Tokyo hotel

If you want a clean and well situated reasonably priced business hotel in Tokyo try the Yaesu Terminal Hotel just 2 minutes walk from Tokyo Station Yaesu North Exit.

Some advantages:
- After arriving in Tokyo station on the Narita Express train from the airport no need to negotiate another mode of transport - it's literally 2 minutes from the North exit.
- Great location for sight seeing around the Imperial Palace, Nihonbashi and Ginza with great transport links to beyond. You can easily go for that morning jog around the Imperial palance from here.
- restaurants and Karaoke (if you are so inclined) are all on your doorstep.
- the rooms are on the small side so if you want to spread out this is not the hotel for you. However, it's clean and comfortable and the staff are friendly. I've stayed here well over a dozen times. A great place to use as a base while in Tokyo.

Lastly, the Kyobashi branch of Isehiro yakitori restaurant is just a short walk from here.

Here are the contact details:
http://www.yth.jp/english/index.html

TOYOKO INN - Budget Hotel Chain

These basic hotels are ubiquitous throughout Japan (there are 25 or so in the Tokyo area). They're nearly always located near the local JR station, making them easy to find in areas you're visiting for the first time, and rates for a single room range from about 5-6000 yen per night. Their consequent popularity means that booking, up to two weeks in advance, is essential (this can be done online up to 6 months in advance).

Interestingly, the chain employs women predominantly - 95% of the staff, including managers, are female.

The company offers a loyalty scheme called Toyoko Inn Club Card which costs 1500 yen to join. For every 10 nights you stay, you are given a voucher for one night's free accommodation (details here: http://www.toyoko-inn.com/eng/club.html )

http://www.toyoko-inn.com/eng/

Edo - Tokyo Museum in Ryogoku

This museum is an informative and fun place to visit for those interested in the history of Tokyo.

The permanent exhibition starts on the 6th floor, where you walk over a life-sized replica of Nihonbashi, the wooden bridge celebrated in Hiroshige's Tokaido woodblock print series.

The exhibition covers a variety of aspects of city life during the Edo period with most exhibits explained in English. There are detailed miniatures and life-sized models of residences and maps.

The Tokyo zone of this exhibition traces the development and modernization of this city from the late 19th century through the Second World War up to the Tokyo Olympics in 1964.

This is an ideal museum for those interested in the history of this dynamic city. With many interactive displays, it caters for all ages.

Directions: 3 minute walk from JR Ryogoku train station (West Exit) past the national sumo arena or 1 minute from Toei Oedo subway station (A4 Exit).

Opening hours: 09:30 to 17:30 Tuesday to Sunday (until 19:30 on Saturdays). Closed on Mondays except when Monday is a national holiday. Then the museum is open and closed on the following Tuesday.

Address 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0015
Tel: 03-3626-9974

http://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english/index.html

Upmarket Yakitori in Tokyo

ISEHIRO 伊勢廣 京橋本店

If you like upmarket Yakitori try Isehiro. It's been operating since 1921 and has three restaurants in central Tokyo. I have eaten at the Kyobashi branch near Tokyo station. It's not cheap but it's mouth-wateringly delicious and always popular. Booking in advance is recommended. Closed on Sundays & holidays.

For the address and map go here:
http://www.gnavi.co.jp/gn/en/g133300a.htm

For menu example and price list go here:
http://www.ginza.jp/isehiro/eng.html

Katsukura - a popular & affordable tonkatsu chain restaurant in Kyoto & Tokyo.

Katsukura specialize in tonkatsu (deep fried breaded pork). Tonkatsu was invented in the Meiji period in the late 19th century as kind of Japanese western dish. It remains a very popular choice to this day and you cannot go wrong with Katsukura. For those of you who might think deep-fried equals heavy and greasy you will be pleasantly surprised. Here tonkatsu comes with shredded raw cabbage, barley rice and miso soup on the side. The pork is amazingly light and melts in your mouth and is definitely worth the queuing for. The sauce into which the sliced pieces of pork are dipped is VERY important. At Katsukura, you crush a handful of sesame seeds with a pestle and mix in the sauce (a vegetable, palm, fruit & red wine mixture) that is provided. There are two kinds: regular and spicy. The raw shredded cabbage offers just the right balance to the pork. Free extra helpings of cabbage, rice and miso are available. It is a great place to drop in for lunch or dinner. They also do take-away and offer non-meat choices such as vegetable rolls and large breaded prawns instead of pork.

Menus in English are available and the price is reasonable. A set menu without drinks is under JPY2,000- per person.

Location:
In central Kyoto there are three branches.
One around the corner from Shijo Karasuma Toyoko Inn. Turn left out of the hotel and turn into the first street on the left before Daimaru department store. It's the third building on the left.
One on Teramachidori near the corner of Shijodori.
One on Sanjodori is located in the covered section near the junction with Shinkyogoku. It's easy to miss as the entrance is only a narrow gap between buildings but you can't miss the food display outside (see photos posted).
Open daily from 11:00 to 21:30 except Saturdays open till 22:00
No table bookings possible. It does get very popular at peak times during the day and in the evening, but it' s worth the wait which is not that long as its turnover rate is quite fast.

Several branches in Tokyo including 14th floor of Takashimaya Department store in Shinjuku and B1 floor of Shiodome City Center in Shiodome.

Website (in Japanese) : http://www.fukunaga-tf.com/katsukura/shop/index.html
for a few photos & menu see: http://www.fukunaga-tf.com/katsukura/menu/index.html